I have tried to master the esoteric art of wine/food pairing from time to time, but if the bells rang it was more a matter of luck then prowess. I suffer from culinary laziness, coupled with a good dose of oenophilic self indulgence. In other words–I pretty much just eat and drink what I like.
I came to this realization just as summer was winding
down, and I took on the responsibility of finding some
magical menu that would do honor to the last sunset we
would witness on Ibiza, off the coast of Spain. Honestly,
there wasn’t much to fuss over. When in Spain, get a
steak, and a grill… pick some roadside rosemary, and steal
a couple of lemons from the neighbor–you don’t need
any more than that. The rule I use at the butcher shop
is simple. If you want the best, look for the cut with the
highest price. It’s an international constant. Unfortunately
this rule doesn’t translate so well in the wine shop.
Sure, I know the routine. I don’t serve red Bordeaux with
sushi, even though I am fond of both. Generally speaking,
white with fish and red with meat will take you a long way,
even if the angels might not sing for you every time. Dry
before sweet is a rule I’ve heard, although I break that
one often. Lots of people swear by young before old as
if dinner were a parade, but if I’m opening a bottle that’s
been lying cozy in the cellar for some years, I don’t want
to have had many tough young glasses on my palate. Also,
I want it known here and now that most cheese tastes
better with white wine, and most cheeseburgers too for
that matter. Try a Pinot Noir with grilled cod for a pleasant
surprise. Red wine can go well with fish provided the wine
isn’t overly tannic or oaked. The sweetness of Sauternes
can be contrasted with salty crackers and blue cheese,
and if you need to feel normal and serve it with dessert,
make sure the food isn’t as sweet as the wine. Forget
pretty much all wine with chocolate. This is basically the
extant of what I know for certain. I see no reason to save
a really good bottle for something more respectable
than homemade pizza. Nothing is more respectable than
homemade pizza.
Back on the island, the sun is sinking faster than I’m
comfortable with, and I’m stuck in a wine shop. This
happens to me a lot: the bear-like man who runs the shop
had his wine glass in one hand and the success of my
mission in the other, so to speak.
Whenever You Want
You might have to settle for something from the outlying
district of Castilla y Leon, but it’s no hard luck choice.
Quality has really taken off recently, and the prices with
it. Try Bodegas y Viñedos de Ribera del Duratón and
Dominio Dostares.
Whenever You Can
Legaris Reserva might be considered a bargain. It’s made
for the cellar, but if you’re impatient you might want to air
it out as the grill warms up. Astrales is always welcome
with any meal that calls for red wine. It has everything a
good Ribera should have: spice, berries, and black pepper.
Once in a Lifetime
Vega-Sicilia Unico is the pride of Spain. Famous for
staying alive in its bottle for a generation or more, it is said
to peak at around 30 years old. I wouldn’t know firsthand,
but they make a wine called Valbuena 5 that I can go good
for. Really go good for.
